Monday, September 27, 2010

Notes from the Underground

Dear family and friends;

This is in the event of my untimely ...(COUGHCOUGHCOUGH)... excuse me, my untimely demise. I am in the middle of a dangerous love affair with the streets of M...Moscow... just a second... (HAAACKHACKHACK)... As I was saying, Lady Moscow is a cruel mistress. She is enticing and exotic, but she absolutely REFUSES TO JOIN THE TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY IN TERMS OF CIGARETTE CONTROL. MUSCOVITES: THERE ARE LESS OBNOXIOUS ADDICTIONS. I SUGGEST CAFFEINE.

Aside from the barrage of second-hand smoke I inhale daily, I am falling in love with the city. Yesterday, we took the underground to a less populous neighborhood in search of the original MXTters. The cemetery was surreal. The sky was clear and the wind could barely scratch the first autumn leaves along beside us as we walked through the rows; nothing overwhelming, just gentle breaths. 

Some background:

The founders of the Moscow Art Theater were true revolutionaries. Before their technique took to the stage, Russian theater was available in two sizes: big and bigger. It was common practice for a well-known performer to stop a scene, walk towards the house, and bow profusely while the rest of the action onstage froze. Theater was commercial and stagnant, a poisonous drug that the Russian aristocrats swallowed blindly to secure their standing as members of the elite. Konstantin Stanislavski, a handsome young actor born into a wealthy pre-revolutionary Russian family, saw this artistically empty shell as an opportunity. He dedicated his life and fortune to restoring the theater's dignity. He was joined by other well-known visionaries, such as, most importantly, Anton Chekhov, the resident playwright. While Stanislavski was fighting for truth in acting, Chekhov was writing the first honest, slice-of-life plays the stage had ever seen. Their company changed the theater forever. 

In a profoundly beautiful show of devotion to the ensemble and their ideals, the founders of MXT bought themselves a grave plot. Instead of being buried with their ancestors, they were buried together. They were a family and MXT was their posterity. 

So far, we've had every class except stage combat. Russian cinema is taught by a woman that really reminds me of my aunt Gloria. Her specialty is early Russian film, so (as those of you who know my taste already have guessed) I'm in heaven. Here's my favorite so far:


Our first week is over. The dust of unpacking is starting to settle and things are finding a rhythm. Soon, this will be life. 

I love the park by our building. I'll take and post pictures when I get the chance.

Closing thoughts:

Roads here are just guidelines. Parking spaces doubly so. The common practice is to drive up on the curb (as far as you need to... some cars only get two wheels up) if street-side parking isn't available. I have nearly been hit several times while walking in the middle of the sidewalk.

When making a purchase, it's impolite to hand the clerk your money. You must set it down on the register or counter. The clerk will then pick it up and replace it with your change.  Otherwise, you're a jerk.

Love you.



Thursday, September 23, 2010

Beet juice to go, please.

Ba- BOOSH- ka: A traditional Russian headscarf, typically worn in bad weather.
BAH- bush-ka: A traditional Russian grandmother, typically wearing a headscarf.

We've begun our classes, the other American school has arrived, and I have stopped shouting, "Scarf!" whenever I see a cute old woman. The semester is officially underway.

The past few days have been chilly and drizzly, but I rather enjoy seeing the city dressed up in colorful umbrellas and street lamps. So far. Word in the yard is that this meteorological trend will continue until the rain turns into snow, and our nerves into paste. I must admit, I'm a bit jittery at the idea of endless gray skies. I've always maintained that bleak weather, like Emily Dickinson, is good for the soul, but this beautiful summer has made me a sunshine junkie. 

Our professors are as follows:

Movement:

Known as "Mad Vlad," Vladimir is an eccentric middle-aged Russian man who  has promised to teach us to fly (I believe him). He also tells us, "It is torture, yes? Smile!" I appreciate his honesty. I've had movement teachers who insist that the excruciating pain I'm experiencing should be pleasant and lovely, which makes me question whether or not I'm doing the exercise/stretch correctly. Vlad's class is currently my favorite. I'll let you know when the cool Russian gymnastics begin.

Singing:

Alla has been vocal director for some major commercial musicals in Russia.  Mamma Mia, Cats, the like. She's a strict woman, but very pretty and quite sweet, in her own way. She's teaching us a method of breathing that directly contradicts what I've been learning; I'm going to comply fully so's I can compare results. My first song is, "Smoke Gets In Your Eyes." I'm one of the lucky ones. Many are singing glorified ABBA songs.

Acting: 

Misha, as he is lovingly known by his students, is a smiley little man who has been teaching at MXT for forty years. His famous catch phrases are, "Streeeeetch out. Like a beeeeeeg kyet," and "I keel you! I keel you now! But not really."  I am going to hold off on acting class descriptions for now. There will be plenty later. It's the only class we have six days out of seven.

We will also take fencing, stage combat, Russian language, history of Russian theater, Rooskie cinema history, and scene design, but they'll come later in the week.

Last night, we watched a MXT showcase of the second-year students. It ranged from very intricate clockwork doll imitations (more on this later) to lip-syncing songs from Sister Act in black-face. Yikes, right? We Americans were quite squirmy during that one. On the whole, it was a lot of broad comedy. After two hours, I was finding less and less funny, but the energy was full and honest and the performers committed to their scenes with total abandon. For example, during one of the other racially charged scenes, a skinny blond girl and a skinnier Justin Beiber-haired young man performed what I'm sure was a horribly offensive re-enactment of an Indian snake charmer/street performer, complete with turban. Although it did seem mean-spirited, the two flailed around so wildly and so unattractively that I couldn't help but respect their complete lack of self-consciousness. 
Another cute little girl was a bulldog... you know that sneezing sound bulldogs make when they're excited or eating? Like, "snnnRUFF.. snnnnnnRUFF," if I had to guess phonetically. She had it DOWN. She sidled into the room, black baseball socks on her arms and panty-hose on her head, each leg knotted to look like an ear, and went AT this stick. I think she actually ate some of the bark. The rest she shredded. Then she watched some cars and sat down really heavily, finally falling asleep. It was unbelievable. Another moment that stuck with me was a scene between two muscly teen-aged boys in large, padded coats, portraying sticky-faced toddlers in the snow. I don't think I can explain it too well, but without being cheesy or fake, they depicted believable and adorable babies.


The pièce de résistance, in my opinion, came in the form of a German cuckoo clock (or maybe some sort of music box. Not sure what the assignment was). It was so poignant that it deserves a tense change, from past to present. That's how it's replaying in my mind anyway. 
It starts with a picture frame, created by the strategic arrangement of two pieces of black plywood and two wide strips of light blue cloth around a young Russian woman and man. The underscoring is simple and childish, like a wind-up toy. The two move with incredible precision. Their faces remain totally blank, eyes glazed, limbs and head jerky, undeniably mechanical. They hug (or bump torsos and arms) and the young man produces a flower that he thrusts at the girl, who smashes it into her face. The two sink beneath the blue sheet. The lights go out. A second later, the lights come back up on the same two. The woman is pregnant, the man in uniform. They kiss, he lowers his head to her stomach, they hug, she waves, then they sink again. After every segment of their lives, they roughly face the audience for a brief second before disappearing. Lights out, lights up on the woman, not so young anymore, with a black scarf around her head and a baby in her arms. She heaves the baby back and forth, then turns, as she had before, to where the man would have been. She wrenches herself back to us and sinks down. Lights out, up on the woman, old now, and a young man in uniform. The woman's face is completely blank, but her eyes are a little wider and tears are streaming down her cheeks. She hugs the young boy, kisses him, hugs him again, and raises her hands to her unchanging mouth in unmistakable horror. They turn out to the audience. Lights out for good this time.

The girl in this scene was used in many of the etudes (etude means "study" in French or something. We use it in class to describe the work we do that isn't scripted or organized). She is probably the most talented actor I've ever seen. 

This was long, huh.

Some Russian girls wear their hair in a bun on the top of their head. It's called a top-knot. It's not okay. They also (and this is both genders) wear some kind of legging/hammer-pants/diaper hybrid with a really low crotch and baggy thighs, but incredibly tight calves. Even less okay.

But red lipstick is in.

Love you.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

THE SPARROW HAS LANDED. REPEAT.

Здравствуыте. я в Москва.

Oh, what? You can't read that? I'm sorry, I guess I was just so steeped in Russian culture that I forgot to translate. It says, "Hello. I am in Moscow."

Moscow is one of the most beautiful places I've ever been. It's a huge city, but quieter (in decibels, not lifestyles) than Springfield. No one here shouts. Everyone here smokes. People are like human art; their faces catch you off-guard. I think it's the bone structure... high cheekbones, huge, wide-set eyes, full jaws and lips... men and women alike. And their legs! Dios mio! Men wear their clothing fitted and women are, as my friend Zack says, "sexy, but not slutty." In other words, they don't cry for attention with heavy make-up or low-cut blouses. This is a city of handsome, classy dressers.

We've had two days of sunshine, the air is crisp, and the leaves are starting to turn. Last night, we went on what our professor refers to as "The Death March," which is the annual tour-de-Moskva our students take directly after dropping off bags, intended to counteract jet lag. We saw the main streets of the city, some key buildings, the Moscow Art Theatre from the outside (where we'll be studying), and Red Square. If you haven't been to Russia in your life, Red Square alone is reason to go. It's a ginger bread city. It's a fairytale. I cried. I stared at St. Basil's Cathedral and tried to convince myself that it was really there, that I was REALLY looking at it, but I just couldn't. We were all in awe. We kept saying, "People MADE this. People BUILT this." 
We also went to the grave of the unknown soldier, but missed the changing of the guard. Another time.

Our dorms are lovely. Today, we went to MXT (Moscow Art Theatre) and met a few professors. Tomorrow, we begin in earnest with 11:00 a.m. movement. People are actually frightened for movement class. It's got that strong of a rep. 

I'll leave you with a list of things (good and upsetting) that seem to be popular here:

Trench coats, cinched at waist, with slightly-above-knee length skirts
Bangs
Skinny jeans, high heels/heeled boots (same as America on that one)
Mullets- The MC, or Mullet Count, is at about 25. Day two, I remind you. 
And, of course, the ever popular fur vest. Real fur. Possibly a fox.

I am truly overflowing. The city is wonderful. Regardless of how the rest of my time here pans out, the emotions and images of today and yesterday have made this beyond worthwhile.

Love you.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

I'm not in Russia, but I wanted you all to know...

...that I'll be arriving at the airport via stretch limo. NOT A JOKE. Through an awesome series of miscommunications, our nasty school van was not booked. Which means LIMO.

What a send-off, America. We'll send you a postcard.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

The Beginning (a harrowing tale of crammed luggage and missing socks)

I leave tomorrow.
I leave for DeKalb, where I will be until Sunday, and then POOF! Gone from your lives like fuzz. For a few months.

FAQ:
1. Are you ready for Russia?
2. What will you be DOING over there?
3. When do you get back?
4. Where will you be?
5. Are you excited?

1. Emotionally, yes. Literally, no. But I will be soon.  Lots more to pack. I am taking a zillion clothes that I probably don't need... I think it's a safety thing.
2. It's through my department, not just my school, so I'll be enrolled in classes that have to do with my major (which is theater, emphasis in acting). I'll take classes six days a week from 11 to 6... classes include stage combat, movement, singing, history of Russian theater, Russian, acting (of course), and POSSIBLY ballet. Probably other stuff, too. I'll also be attending a lot of productions around Moscow and exploring as much as my cramped schedule will allow. CHALLENGE ME TO PUSH-UP CONTESTS UPON RETURN. Apparently, I'll be a lot stronger. I hope that's true and that I didn't just sign myself up for countless push-up humiliations.
3. Good question, hypothetical asker. The semester ends December 19th, but my good buddy Mark Caspary and I are going to bop around Europe for about a week. Plans should be made tonight. More on that later.
4. Moscow, but a few days in St. Petersburg (known by the locals as Sanct Peterboorg)
5. Yes. Yes, yes, yes. A little nervous, too, but very excited.

Next time you hear from me, I WILL BE IN RUSSIA!